Mouth-watering kebabs, aromatic biryani, and airy, ethereal desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has consistently been a dream destination for epicures, with residents and travelers equally celebrating its remarkable cuisine.
An International Accolade
In a recent announcement, The United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization recognised it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – adding it to a prestigious group of global cities and sparking hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's exceptional food. With this status, it enters a worldwide network of cities urban centers across over 100 countries focused on promoting "creativity as a driver of city development that is sustainable".
The honor "is a testament to its deep-rooted food heritage and lively gastronomic culture," as noted by a representative from UNESCO's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to find a place in this coveted list of seventy urban centers internationally.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The accolade for this time-honored city is hardly a shock to its residents or passionate food lovers. Many echo the sentiment that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO accolade, this cherished, chaotic, and eclectic city – the capital of India's largest state – is at last in the spotlight for what has perennially characterized its heart: an immense passion for food.
"'What's for dinner, the method of preparation' is a ongoing discussion from waking up until going to bed in many homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are often judged by the standard of food that is produced in your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The City of the Nawabs – as it's often referred to after its 18th and 19th-century opulent Muslim rulers – is famed for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were invented, perfected, and elevated to extraordinary levels in their royal kitchens.
These royal kitchens were hubs of food experimentation, fusing Iranian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were created. Legend has it that the mutton galouti was devised to feed an ageing nawab who had lost his teeth. His culinary artists minced the meat with raw papaya, saffron, and a blend of spices and made it so fine that it required no chewing.
But perhaps the most significant contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a low, leisurely heat, with the container's cover tightly sealed with dough.
More Than Just Famous Dishes
In addition to the well-known kebabs and biryani, the cooks also created a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local Baniya community's cuisine not only celebrates fresh harvests but also offers the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Almost on many street corners, there are tiny kiosks and carts – little-known delights that are immensely popular with the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, large gatherings start milling around from the crack of dawn at a renowned tea stall to get a piping hot cup of milky masala chai, presented in kulhads, along with incredibly soft buns covered in hand-churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can head to a no-frills joint operating in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was established, the place is still in great demand for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also presents special seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert found in the winter. The process of making it is scientific and complicated. The cook beats the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its unique light consistency.
On chilly mornings, street vendors are often seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Many but express concern that their younger generation are unwilling to learn the skill.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has frequently stated that the city's profound food legacy puts it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will occur only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – crafted by family-run food businesses, from humble street carts to lively restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is anticipated, will inspire more people globally to explore these narratives and visit the city to delight in the food wonders of Lucknow.